June 19, 2013

Summer Road Trip: Oamaru and Moeraki Boulders

As soon as summer kicks in and the school holidays start, the planing of short road trips begins. It is hard leaving the business at its peak time, but we’ve got to keep the little ones entertained. Let’s go and see the Penguins in Oamaru, a friend suggested, and the next day we found ourselves packing bags and the children into the car and heading south.

If you are a tourist, don’t take the road we locals take. SH1 from Christchurch to Oamaru is boring. Just like that. To make it a real road trip, take the inland scenic route via Mt Hutt and you will end up in Temuka and from there join SH1 down south.

Speaking of Temuka, plan a break at The Shearers Quarters Cafe. It will require you to get off the main road, and drive through the tiny rural back roads, but it is well worth it. One warning though. If you are going on a hot day, don’t sit outside.

The Shearers Quarters

The Shearers Quarters

We stayed the night at Northstar Motel and enjoyed getting a wealth of information from our hosts. After settling in we took a walk through the town centre to admire its old buildings and tranquility. Dinner at Filadelfio’s Pizza proved to be a winner.

Oamaru Town Centre

Oamaru Town Centre

Time for the reason we took this road trip – the Blue Penguins. The Blue Penguins is the smallest in the world and it nests under the cliffs along the Historic Harbour foreshore. The Penguins are active on land only at night. At sunset, you can spot a dark wave in the distance and a few minutes later this dark wave is turning into a crowd of noisy small Penguins. A few Seals spending the night on shore are sometimes an attraction as well. If you want to help the conservation programme, you can adopt a Penguins.

Oamaru is also home to another world rarest penguin specie – the Yellow Eyed Penguins. A hide has been built to allow visitors to observe as they are easily disturbed.  The best viewing is about 2 hours before sunset and at sunrise.

Moeraki Boulders

The boulders are giant concretions formed in the mudstone seabed millions of years ago. A Maori legend tells the boulders are remains of calabashes, kumaras and eel baskets that washed ashore after the legendary canoe, the Araiteuru, was wrecked at nearby Shag Point (Matakaea).

Drive south about 30 minutes from Oamaru, park near the beach and enjoy the walk to the boulders. Make sure you check the tide or you might be disappointed to find the sea covered the boulders.

Moeraki Boulders

Moeraki Boulders

Have you visited Oamaru and the Moeraki Boulders? Share your stories with us.

Auckland: Urban Travel in New Zealand

When people think about travelling New Zealand they usually think about snow caped mountains, lush rain forests and beautiful waterfalls. Most travellers we come across take the car they rented from us and rush out from the city, eager to start a great outdoor adventure.

But New Zealand is not only country life. It also has a vibrant city culture. My visit to Auckland threw me back to the feelings I had when I first visited New York City. To those of you coming from any other big city around the world, Auckland, with it’s 1.2m people might be considered a small town, but for us kiwis, it is the largest urban centre. It also happened to be during the Rugby World Cup games and coming from Christchurch, which was missing out on the fun and excitement of a hosting city, it was a great treat. I did wonder if we will have enough to do as we had five days. As it turned out, we didn’t have time to see and do all that we wanted to.

Lading on the Sunday of the All Blacks vs Argentina game. Quarter final, how exciting! First thing first, took our car, call friends for help (where do you park in this city?) and off we go, braving myself on the motorways. First word of advise – when travelling a big city, take a GPS. I wouldn’t have survived without it (and even with it I managed to take a few wrong exits and found myself on the wrong bridge).

Our first stop was the car park under the Sky Tower. I should have recorded the Wow! sound of the kids when they saw this:

The Sky Tower is a well known landmark in Auckland’s CBD. Its location on the corner of Victoria and Federal Streets makes it a perfect reference point to getting around and about central city. Parking the car at its car park allowed us to walk the short distance to Queens Wharf to join the celebration of Rugby. Its 328 metres (1,076 ft) make it the tallest free-standing structure in the Southern Hemisphere.

For those adventurous enough you can go out from the safety of the observation deck and do the Sky Walk outside and if that’s not enough adrenaline rush, you can pump some more and Sky Jump. The kids would not let me have a second thought about going up to the observation deck, even after one of them insisted he felt an earthquake. You can’t get a better view of the city, grasping just how big it is while sipping a nice cup of coffee. As I wasn’t brave enough to go out and do the Sky Walk, a photo from within will have to do.

City of Sails

The City of Sails

Walking towards Queens Wharf reminded me just how much I love wondering around a big city; just walking the streets perhaps even without any final destination to get to, just to absorb the vibe and feel of it.

Auckland Urban view

Have you been to Auckland? Share your experience with us!

Photo Essay: 10 Beautiful New Zealand Landscapes

New Zealand has many different landscapes, all cramped in one small country. In almost every direction you look and every road you drive through you will discover stunning landscapes, a beautiful sunset, a calm lake or the gashing ocean,  a snow capped mountain and green rolling hills. Here are 10 of my favourite landscapes.

1. The Doubtful Sound

Doubtful Sound, Fiordland, New Zealand

A very large and naturally imposing fjord. Less visited then the famous Milford Sound, but let not that make you think it is anything less then a magnificent natural wonder. The towering peaks descending into the water, the waterfalls and the thick vegetation create a powerful atmosphere of solitude and serenity.

2. Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier

In the last ice age the Franz Josef glacier extended beyond today’s coastline. The glacier we see today has retreated considerably, but echoes of it’s past are still apparent in the current landscape. The Franz Joseph is a unique glacier as it descends from the Southern Alps to less than 300 metres above sea level, amidst the greenery of the rain forest.

3. Cape Reinga

Cape Reinga

Under the watchful gaze of the lighthouse, Cape Reinga is the meeting place of two mighty oceans, the Tasman and Pacific.

4. Queenstown

Queenstown

World known as New Zealand’s adventure capital. But Queenstown is so much more then just adrenaline rush, with The Remarkables mountain range and Lake Wakatipu, the third largest lake in New Zealand.

5. Snow Capped Mountains

Snow caped mountains at Hanmer Springs

In winter, the South Island turns into winter wonderland.

6. A Coastal Sunset

NZ coast sunset

A sunset or sunrise? Living on an Island, especially one as narrow as New Zealand, allows you to enjoy the sunrise on one coast and the sunset on the other and it can be done in one day!

7. Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps

Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps

Birds eye view of beautiful Lake Wanaka and the majestic Southern Alps.

8. Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes

Punakaiki Pancake rocks and blowholes

The famous Pancake Rocks and Blowholes are just a 20 minute loop walk from where you park your vehicle on the main highway at Punakaiki. The curious, looking like giant pancakes, limestone formations are especially spectacular at high tide in a westerly sea.

9. Cathedral Cove

Cathedral Cove walk and beach

One of the Must Visit sites on the Coromandel Peninsula. A walking track gives access to Gemstone Bay, Stingray Bay and the beautiful sandy beach at Cathedral Cove.

10. Wellington

Wellington

New Zealand’s capital city, who earned the title “The coolest little capital in the world.”

Share this photo essay and tell the world about what you love about the Land of the Long White Cloud.

Kiwiana and Word Riddles at The Maze

It was a nice sunny afternoon and the cry was heard. We’ve got nothing to do!

Aha! It didn’t take me more then 10 seconds and I took the vouchers out. Let’s go an check the new Maze. I have been planning on going to check out the new place for a while, and the free entry vouchers, thankfully donated to our soccer team were highly appreciated.

Tothill’s Mazes is located on 493 Shands Road (off Halswell Junction Road) and currently has a unique kiwi themed wooden maze. The challenge is not only to find your way through the maze but also to locate kiwiana items scattered around, a lawn labyrinth and the corn maze which is operational January – April.

The first ever Wooden Maze we did was at Puzzling World in Wanaka. There we did get lost :-) At Tothills we found we could find the 4 corners and reach the middle tower without getting lost, but we had to take a few rounds to discover the Kiwiana items we have missed. The four corners of the Maze contain a wealth of information about New Zealand and the answers to the word puzzles (that is if you can remember the puzzles…).

Tothill Maze information corner

If you managed to find all 36 items (I know it doesn’t a lot but after going round the maze about 10 times, I finally admitted it was hard to find where the hidden items are) or simply decided you had enough, find your way to the exit and go check the labyrinth, or better, send your kids to check it out and burn some more energy while you enjoy a nice cup of coffee.

Abel Tasman Coastal Track From Mutton Cove to Totaranui

It only seams I have forgotten my promise to continue telling about our tramping days at the Abel Tasman, after our so well planned tramping expedition was washed away by the rain as told in previous post Tramping the Abel Tasman Coast Track (or so we thought). I didn’t. Days simply go past so fast and I have had so many other exciting things to write about.

After having to go back to the drawing board to re-plan our walking excursions, we have decided to take the Water Taxi to Mutton Cove, just below Separation Point. A boat full of kids is a good enough reason for the Water Taxi skipper to give them a good time and we also stopped to watch our furry friends, also known as Seals.

Seals at mutton cove, abel tasman

After waiving and talking to the Seals we decided it is time to let our great ride go on its way and landed on a beautiful golden beach. It was just us and nature at all its majestic beauty. It was refreshing to be reminded that nature is not all about earthquakes and aftershocks.

Mutton Cove, Abel Tasman National Park

From Mutton Cove to Anapai Bay you can choose between soaking your toes in the beauty of the gold sandy beach or put your shoes back on and walk the rocky headlands of regenerating Kanuka.

From Anapai Bay back to Totaranui, the track winds through the lush forest, climbs over a low saddle and around the Totaranui estuary. The estuary is a great natural playground for kids and adults alike. It didn’t take long before the entire tribe had wet feet (be warned – the water is cold!) and a bunch of jumping kids checking water’s depth. How come I don’t have a single photo of it is a mystery!

We should have taken the lesson of “don’t bother trying to keep you shoes dry” that same day, but we didn’t. It wasn’t too long after that we had to listen to this such important New Zealand walking track advise. Stay tuned for the story of how we learned the hard lesson.

Did you walk this part of the Abel Tasman Track? Any part of it? Share your experience and thoughts with us.

Nature in New Zealand

The latest news story about Happy Feet, not the movie, but the emperor penguin who took a wrong turn and ended up on a New Zealand beach (Kapiti Coast, north of Wellington) and the public attention this bird is getting, made me realise just how much kiwis are known for their conservation awareness. This awareness came with a heavy price tag of so many unique species lost forever, but we have learned from our past mistakes and we raise our children with this acquired knowledge that we must keep our natural surrounding for future generations.

Many words can be written about New Zealand nature life. The diversity is a result the land’s temperate climate and geographic isolation. The Kiwi, this time I refer to the bird, is a world known flightless bird and a national icon the locals are nik-named after. Any child can tell you it is an endangered specie and that a lot of work is being put into the conservation work to save the kiwis. But did you know that the Kakapo, the only flightless and nocturnal parrot, is listed internationally as a critically endangered specie with only 131 known surviving birds? Even the Kea, an endemic parrot of the South Island’s high country, is estimated at between 1,000 and 5,000 birds.

What can you do to help safeguard New Zealand’s nature for generations to come? First, you can learn about what you should NOT be doing while travelling in New Zealand.

One great threat to the Kea is the reduction in sources of natural foods available, as a result of human development in the alpine zone. Feeding a Kea might look like you save it from starvation, but it discourages the Keas from learning about their natural foods and finding it, and this can make them dependent on human scraps. You can help the Keas by minimising contact. Don’t feed the Kea and keep temptations out of their way. If you see a banded Kea please report it to the nearest DOC office.

Kekeno (New Zealand fur seal) are the most common seals in New Zealand waters. They are are very good swimmers but on land they sometimes become disoriented and have been found in unusual places such as back-yards and streets. The causes of most threats to fur seals today is from human disturbance and activity are . This includes entanglement in fishing gear and marine debris and harassment by the public.

DOC (Department of Conservation) website has a wealth of information you can read in order to learn more about the threats to New Zealand’s nature.

Learn how you can get involved with threatened species conservation work DOC  is doing, through community groups or through the DOC volunteer programme.

Tramping the Abel Tasman Coast Track (or so we thought)

Abel Tasman National Park, located at the top of the South Island, is renowned for its golden beaches, sculptured granite cliffs, and world-famous Abel Tasman Coast Track. The Abel Tasman Park offer two options for those with a desire to explore it: the Coast Track and the Inland Track through the hilly centre of the park. The Coast Track is the easier and is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. Doing a multi-day track is the only option to properly explore and enjoy all wonders and beauties of this park. The official information is saying that the entire track can be walked between three to five days.

A marine phenomenon – low and high-tide, is one which must be taken into account when planning the track. As the track is along the coastline, it features two sections which require crossing of inlets. Flooded during a high-tide, these small bays become uncrossable.

The plan was ambitious as we never had the chance of checking whether our group of 11 kids was actually capable of real tramping, but as we counted on the weather to be fine (hey, it’s Easter!) and only having 2-4 hours of walking each day, we thought we had it all sorted.

The plan:

  • Drive Christchurch to Totaranui, camp for the night allowing serious partying and calorie loading. After packing for a mission (impossible?) take the Water Taxi to Bark Bay. Set up camp. Eat lavish dinner that we have carried in extra bag(s) on the boat. Splash in estuary, bolder hopping, swimming, sting ray-spotting and a 30min day walk to the tiny Medlands beach to the South.
  • The next day hike northwards to Onetahuti (2hours; 5.4km) Set up camp, eat our heaviest food and allow the kids to play as much as they want. The Sunday hike to Awaroa (2 hours, 6km) was well timed to catch tidal crossing. Set up camp and play on tidal flats.
  • Hike to Totaranui (1hour 30; 5.5km).  Stop for lunch and swim at Goat bay.  Back at Totaranui camping ground, find our cars where fresh sources of food are stashed in car-boots and the gas camping freezer (if anyone is thinking, boy what a luxury camping these guys have, you are right!) and enjoy free-flowing warm water coming out of perforated elevated faucets otherwise known as SHOWERS!  Pitch tents. End-of-hike partying.

We even had a marked map so that no one will get lost.

Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Abel Tasman Coastal Track Plan

Looking at the plan of driving Christchurch-Totaranui in one day, and possibly (or I should say, likely) driving the Takaka Hill road in the dark, part of our group including your truly decided to split the drive, stay one night in Motueka and do the hard part after a good night sleep.

Well, a good night sleep we didn’t have, but at least we got to drive Takaka Hill at day light, and enjoy the “enchanted forest” at Grove Scenic Reserve.

Grove Scenic Reserve, Takaka

Grove Scenic Reserve, Takaka

After having lunch at Grove Scenic Reserve, and a short stop at Pohara we arrived at Totaranui Campground. During Summer this campground is buzzing, taking up to 850 campers and the Totaranui Great Walk campsite is inside the campground. Being such a popular destination, if you plan on a Summer visit you must pre-book in August for travel between 10 December – 10 February.

Totaranui Beach is a beautiful strip of beach known for its golden sand and crystal clear water (when the sea is less excited).

Gold sand at Totaranui Beach

Gold sand at Totaranui Beach

It didn’t take long before the kids got their feet and cloths wet in the water, not paying too much attention to us, also known as mums, trying to keep their only pair of shoes dry. Note to mums planning tramps – don’t try to keep the shoes dry. Eventually they will get wet so simply have another pair with you.

Toturanui Beach

Our attempt at drying the shirts

Checking at the office what is the weather forecast for Saturday and Sunday we learned it wasn’t looking cheerful. After setting the camp up the tribal planning committee had to make a decision. After all we are tramping with a 3 year old. At camp we had our tents pitched. A large Gazibo with all you can think of to entertain 12 kids under shelter and also a very welcomed addition in the form of hot shower (as opposed to the cold ones the campground at Totaranui offers, which on a hot Summer day is nice to have but not at the forecasted weather we had).

And so the plan changed to a base camp and day walks (to be continued…)

Have you been to Totaranui Beach? Did you walk the Abel Tasman Coast Track? Share your thoughts at the comments below.

Winter in New Zealand

This post is part of my Blog4NZ series. March 21, 22, and 23 has been set aside by travel bloggers throughout the world as 72 hours of content generation about travelling to New Zealand in order to bring awareness to the fact that, despite the February 22 Christchurch earthquake, the country is still very much open for business.

Since I have taken my high boots from the closet today I could officially declare Autumn is here and it is not long before the Winter descend on us and the fun in the snow will begin.

Though it might seam as if New Zealand is more of a Summer destination (not that Summer doesn’t have its days when a fashion conscious girl needs to take her boots out of the closet) there is still lots to do during Winter and the South Island is a key destination for Winter sport aka Skiing and Snowboarding.

I think I have already mentioned our favourite ski field is Mt Hutt. Now, where was it that I wrote it? Oh, yes, in my guest post “The New Zealand You Discover Riding an 8 Wheel Amphibious Vehicle” kindly published by Over Yonderlust. We like it as it’s only an hour and a half drive from Christchurch, and taking the scenic route via Darfield there’s an added bonus of the beautiful drive. It has excellent snow (and as far as I know the longest season in New Zealand), the chair lifts are a breezer and the new covered Magic Carpet tunnel provides for a fun and sheltered ride up the beginner slopes. The beginner slopes was our main destination. It is about time for our boys to do their first steps down the slopes.

First thing, first – the drive

Coming from Christchurch you can either take the road to Methven, via Rakaia, and from there to drive to Mt Hutt. Or you can take my favourite, which is driving towards Darfield on the West Coast Road, then take Route 77  towards Mt Hutt. Adam Seper wrote the best description I ever read which explains why this route is so unique and why it is considered to be the Best Drive Ever.

Unlike other ski resorts around the world, NZ’s ski fields are literally in the middle of nowhere. It will take a good drive up the mountain before you start to see what it’s all about. One reward the mountain is offering is the view of Canterbury Plains.

Canterbury Plains from Mt Hutt
Canterbury Plains – a view from Mt Hutt

The road is not easy. Living in Christchurch we are used to strong winds, and it is often during Winter that when the winds blow I wonder how this will affect the ability to drive up the mountain. But the sight of the white, snow covered slopes is all worth the terrifying moments of driving on the edge (of both – the cliff and the seat…).

Snow on Mt Hutt

Arriving at the snow on Mt Hutt

Views from the top of Mt Hutt  are simply breathtaking and on a clear day you can see all the way from the Pacific Ocean to the heart of the Southern Alps. If your goal is hitting the slopes then you are rewarded with the largest skiable area in the South Island, a well developed trail network, a 10000sqm terrain park with halfpipe, triple black diamond runs and steep chutes, including one of the largest vertical drops in the South Island! How cool is that? Well, very, including the temperatures ;-)

 

Typical lunchtime view, Mt Hutt

Typical lunchtime view

Are you a Winter travel enthusiast? Share your winter memories with us.

Blue As Much As Blue Can Be

Recently my youngest son brought a book home from school called “Jungle River.” On the cover was a photo of a large river and the surrounding rain forest. “That is not a river,” said the boy looking at the photo. “It is brown and rivers are blue” he answered my question.

So, yes, growing in New Zealand and travelling around the South Island you learn that rivers are blue. After a while you learn to distinguish between the blue colours as well.

The Blue Pools of Haast Pass, New Zealand

The Blue Pools of Haast Pass, New Zealand

The scenic road over Haast Pass, the southern gateway to the West Coast, is one of the most stunning in New Zealand. The glacier-fed water in these deep pools is the colour of deep azure blue , and so clear that you can see right to the bottom. North of Makarora and located within the World Heritage listed Mount Aspiring National Park, a carefully maintained gravel path and boardwalks that wind through a native silver beech forest is leading to a swing bridge strung high above the Makarora River.

The bridge over the Blue river allows viewing of the glacial blue waters of the Blue Pools; crystal clear pools that have been carved out of the rocks by centuries of erosion.

This short walk, 30 minutes return, proved to be the highlight of our drive from Wanaka to the West Coast.

Reflections From Christchurch After a 6.3 Earthquake

This blog is a semi-professional one. Yes, it is a blog which started as a promotional add-on to the marketing effort of our business, but being a family owned and operated business (eg myself and partner), I am the one writing it and hence the personal side of it. When we are busy and I have less time on my hands, it’s reflecting on my activity here.

On Saturday 19 February my partner and I went on a “Get to know your city” night in central Christchurch. It was good personally for us but also professionally so we can recommend our clients what to do and where to go in Christchurch’s CBD based on first hand experience. Sitting on a beautiful Summer night next to the Cathedral I thought how foolish I was to forget to bring my camera! What kind of a travel blogger does that? The Cathedral at 8pm light looked peaceful. This world known icon of Christchurch looked right in place at the centre of the buzz of the CBD. A spot of tranquility amongst the hustle and bustle of the city.

The next day we had breakfast at a small coffee shop on Hereford street. My partner examined the windows which were a work of historical art while we were both sitting in a coffee shop where the tables and chairs are not matching enjoying the thought these must have come from the ultimate second hand shop in Christchurch. What a great reflection of the kiwi way of living.

At noon it was time to go back to reality. My partner went back to the office and I went to pick up our kids who went for a sleepover. meeting my friend on High Street we were walking along the shops, admiring a pair of boots and scheduled to come back on Thursday to try them on as with all the kids around us (plus scooters, ripsticks and so on) we didn’t want to trash the shop.

On Tuesday 22 February at 12.51pm the city as we knew it collapsed under the tremendous force of a 6.3 earthquake which epicentre was at our doorstep. Unlike the 4 September earthquake this once took the city down and tore it to pieces. The international media coverage showed each and every part of the devastation to the world. Some of our friends are left without a home now. Some live in houses that will have to be demolished. And all of us are shaken to the core and afraid of what the future has for us.

The Knox Presbyterian Church on Bealey Avenue lies in ruins after February 22, 2011 earthquake in Christchurch

My family is lucky. Our house has minor to almost no damage (still damage from the previous earthquake which is yet to be repaired). Our business premises is standing. Apart from half a day without power and one day without water we are fine. It is the Cathedral that is broken, the small coffee shop that is gone and the entire High street shops as well. It is our hearts that are broken, are children that are scared and our future and our means to support it that are overcasting a large shadow on us.

Memories Cafe at the corner of Papanui & Harewood Rd. My local Coffee shop

Memories Cafe at the corner of Papanui & Harewood Rd. My local Coffee shop

We didn’t have much time to gather ourselves together and continue business as usual. We had customers on the road. We had people calling and asking what to do. Are you still operational was the most frequent, and obvious, question. We had to re-schedule reservations. We had to handle cancellations and we had to think what to do with a so far great tourism season that so abruptly came to an end and how to get the message to the outside world that Christchurch is hurt but didn’t vanish from the face of the earth and that the best way to support this city is to keep on coming. The South Island is amazing is it has always been, and the roads to and from the Airport are open. This is where guilt comes into the already heavily emotional picture. There are still many people around the city with no power or water. There are people who lost their homes and there are people who lost their loved ones. How can we put aside all of this and think of our own business? It feels so selfish yet we know we must. We need to provide for our children. We need to support ourselves so we will not need to rely on recovery packages so that there will be more money left for those who are not as fortunate as us.

Easier said then done. I’m having a hard time recovering. After enrolling my kids to an outside of Christchurch school I felt that though it was the right thing to do for them I have done it with a heavy heart. Was I abandoning my beloved city?

Having the children at school allows me to work but how can you take your mind of what is going around in your city? How can you use the social media network to talk about the amazing things you can do in NZ and put aside the urge to check stuff.co.nz every minute? When is it ok to go back to normal? I don’t know. There are so many things to think about and problems to solve but currently we are all in a survival mode.

If you want to help the recovery of Christchurch you can do so by donating money through the Red Cross. If you are a travel blogger and visited NZ (or even if you didn’t you can still help) you can join an initiative Jim McIntosh is organising via Travel Bloggers Facebook group.